Once a hot restaurant in the early aughts, Lobby at Twelve at the base of the Twelve Hotel and Residences at Atlantic Station had begun to show its age. So Concentrics restaurants, which operates the space, rebooted it into the new Allora, which means “then” in Italian. So what “then?” How about a cool casual Italian spot serving up wood-fired pizzas, fresh pastas and salads and lots of other rustic Italian classics from Executive Chef Chris Maher (formerly of Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, 4th & Swift and ONE Midtown Kitchen). Antipasti such as charred octopus, veal and ricotta meatballs, and entrees such as whole roasted branzino and pasta dishes — from house-made cacio e pepe to a wonderful lemon saffron campanele are all outstanding renditions of Old World Italian standbys, spiced up with some modern flair. The renovated space feels airy yet warm with rich leathers and woods, a chef’s table overlooking the open kitchen and one of the most unique pizza ovens you will see. As opposed to tucking it away back in the kitchen, this white hickory-burning oven — complete with ceiling vent — fits snuggly behind the bar. So at Allora you can order your Neapolitan pie and watch it get baked right in front of you as you sip on a nice chianti. I recommend the carbonara made with pancetta, cracked pepper, mozzarella, Pecorino Romano and a gooey farm egg.